Notes on West Virginia
Almost Heaven
West Virginia gets a lot of grief. Look at most socioeconomic indicators by state, and it’s in the bottom five. Often, it’s either 49 or 50, neck and neck with Mississippi. But West Virginia has quite a bit to offer. The people are friendly, the mountains are beautiful, and the prices are cheap. I’ve now been there three times - in 2016 I visited Morgantown, in 2017 I was in Harpers Ferry, and I just spent three days around Fayetteville. Here are some of my thoughts.
(Also check out my Notes on Charleston, Notes on Belize, and Notes on Great Britain.)
West Virginia was originally part of Virginia but split off during the American Civil War. This wasn’t because West Virginians were against slavery. It was more an issue of succession. West Virginians preferred to be part of the Union rather than the Confederacy, so they became an independent state. I’ve always found it curious that a part of Virginia would be so against doing what the rest of the state wanted that it would break off, forming an entirely new state, and call itself… West Virginia. Seems like if you care enough to leave, you should care enough to come up with an original name.
West Virginia has a lot of negative stereotypes, mainly that the people are a bunch of backward hillbillies. After visiting three times, I find that stereotype frustrating. There is some truth to it, more on that in a second, but it’s also missing a huge component: the people are amazingly friendly. At least if the stereotype was that West Virginia was full of friendly hillbillies it would be more complete. Instead, it’s just mean.
Driving around the state, I have seen some things that make me understand the origin of the stereotype. There was a house down the street from my Airbnb that looked like it was having a yard sale in the front yard. Nope. Just a house with piles and piles of stuff, including some (presumably valuable) items under a partially set-up beach canopy, that was kept in the front yard. West Virginia is also the heaviest state in the US, with an astonishing 41 percent obesity rate. That seems accurate. There are a lot of unhealthy people walking around.
So yes, the negative stereotypes do come from somewhere. I just wish it also included how friendly everyone was. Almost every interaction I’ve had with the people of West Virginia has been pleasant. In Harpers Ferry I went to the Appalachian Trail office to find out where I could camp nearby. The office had closed for the night about 15 minutes before I arrived but I could see people inside. After I knocked on the door, the two women working there acted like I was a distant relative. They welcomed me inside, gave me directions to a camping spot, and wished me good luck. Places in the Northeast aren’t that nice when they are open.
Additionally, while West Virginia is one of the poorest states, being America, there is still a tremendous amount of wealth. Even on smaller backroads, there were nice houses everywhere. Often these houses were on lots that were over half an acre. So if you want a decent house on a big property, West Virginia is for you.
Harpers Ferry is a nice place to visit. It’s located at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers on a narrow peninsula. Surrounded by water, the town is built into steep hillsides. The city also has important historic value, being the location of the arsenal that was briefly taken over by the abolitionist John Brown. In any other part of the country, a town with the beauty and significance of Harpers Ferry would be full of cute cafes and boutique hotels. Instead, Harpers Ferry is rather quiet. As of 2017, there were some abandoned buildings, a few bed and breakfasts, and a couple of decent restaurants. I’ve never visited a place in the US that could be so much more with some TLC.
Harpers Ferry Morgantown, which I visited in 2016, is a very unique college town. Like much of the state, it is quite hilly. That gives the local campus, the University of West Virginia, a unique feel. Same beautiful buildings and manicured lawns, just built on a slope. The university and town do have an elevated train system from the 1970s, something you don’t see on a lot of college campuses.
This most recent trip took me to Fayetteville and New River Gorge National Park. I wasn’t sure what to expect from New River Gorge. It’s only been a national park for four years, and the newer national parks are often underwhelming. After all, there’s a reason they weren’t national parks until recently. Places like Cuyahoga Valley, Indiana Dunes, and Congaree are pleasant enough, but they dilute the national park designation. Don’t even get me started on Gateway Arch National Park.
To my surprise New River Gorge National Park definitely earned its status. The gorge is beautiful. There are hiking trails, viewpoints, a nice visitors center, and the famous New River Gorge Bridge. We did the Endless Wall trail, and it was one of the best easy day hikes I’ve ever done.
Endless Wall and the New River Gorge Bridge in the background Then there is the Thurmond Historic District. Once a boomtown with thousands of residents, Thurmond is now mostly a ghost town. A few of the houses are still occupied, but the vast majority are vacant. The town’s “main street” still has a couple of buildings standing. It was very cool to walk around an abandoned mining town at the bottom of a gorge.
Abandoned Thurmond The town near the New River Gorge National Park, Fayetteville, lives up to its billing as one of the coolest small towns in the country. A cute main street and tiny downtown have the locally famous “Pies and Pints”, a restaurant with an amazing 3,280 reviews on Google. There are also a few breweries scattered about.
Visit West Virginia. It might not be almost heaven, but it is a beautiful place and worth your while.
